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Quality Acid Neutralizers

Installing an acid neutralizer is the most effective and economical way to correct a low pH imbalance of your water. The telltale signs of acidic water - if you have copper pipes - are blue or green stains in the bottom of your tub or sinks. If you have low pH, acidic water not only can create these stains, but can also, over time, damage your copper water pipes and create pin-hole leaks. By installing an acid neutralizer you can possibly slow down or stop the problem at its source. Essentially, this can save you a lot of money in the long run by not damaging your expensive fixtures and copper water pipes.

UP-Flow Style Acid Neutralizers

Help stop further damaging effects of acidic water to your copper pipes by installing an Acid Neutralizer. These systems use food grade calcium carbonate (limestone) or calcium carbonate mixed with corosex (magnesium oxide).

Acid Neutralizer
Features of the Up-Flow Acid Neutralizer:
  • System comes complete with bypass valve
  • Simplistic up flow design requires no backwashing
  • Does not require electricity, drain line or timer to operate
  • Directional inlet/outlet head has removable cap for fill port to easily add media when needed (wrench included)
  • Removable upper distributor basket allows tank water drainage when adding media
  • Tank is constructed using wound fiberglass/polyethylene for durability
  • Includes: 1" fipt brass flow regulator (5 gpm), food grade media and gravel and adapters for vertical or horizontal piping applications
  • Operating pressure range: 25-125 psi
  • Operating temperature range: 40 - 100°F.
  • 1" inlets & outlets
  • View inlet/outlet head dimensions
  • 10" diameter x 44" tall
  • View installation instructions

Description Price & Quantity
Model #N210 acid neutralizer for pH's of 5.9 - 6.9
- Includes 1 cu. ft of food grade Calcite
- 5 gpm Brass Flow Regulator
Model #N225 acid neutralizer for pH's of 5.5 - 6.9
- Includes 30 to 50 lbs. of food grade Corosex & 1/2 cu. ft Calcite
- 5 gpm Brass Flow Regulator
- OR - View Cart

The mineral, calcite (calcium carbonate) or a mixture of calcite and magnesium oxide, is installed into the mineral tank. As acidic (low pH) water flows into the tank head it is directed down through the distributor tube to the bottom of the tank forcing the water to flow "up" through the minerals in the tank. The minerals dissolve into the water causing a boost in the pH level by effectively increasing the hydroxide ion concentration and decreasing the hydrogen ion concentration in the water.

Ideally you want to raise the pH to approximately 7 units. This unit measurement is based on the logarithmic pH scale ranging from 0 to 14. Each one unit change in the pH scale corresponds to a ten-fold change in the hydrogen ion concentration. In pure water the unit 7 on the pH scale denotes the pH level as neutral. Any pH values lower than 7 have more hydrogen ions and are considered acidic and any pH values higher than 7 have more hydroxide ions and are considered alkaline. Acidic water has more hydrogen ions and is detrimental to copper piping.

Since this system does not backwash we recommend a 1" sediment filter be installed before the system to filter any sediment or turbidity out of the incoming water. We also recommend the same type of filter be installed on the outlet of the acid neutralizer to catch any undissolved media. This type of acid neutralizer will increase the hardness of the water. If this will create a problem then we recommend installing a water softener after this unit.

Note: We highly recommend a 1" sediment filter before and after any calcite type acid neutralizer.

Acid Neutralizer Installation Instructions

Acid Neutralizer drawing shematic
This quality acid neutralizer system consists of:
  • 1 - 10" x 44" Polyethylene/Fiberglass tank
  • 1 - Distributor tube with bottom screen (pre-installed in tank)
  • 1 - In-Out Up-flow head with fill port, cap, and removable basket to provide access to the top of the distributor tube and allow water to be drained from the tank when adding media
  • 1 - bypass valve with directional red handles to indicate service flow
  • 2 - straight plastic adapter fittings, 1" mipt for metal piping installations
  • 2 - 90° PVC connection (adapter) fittings 3/4 slip x 1" spigot for PVC piping installations
  • 1 - 1" Dole brand flow regulator 5 gpm
  • 13-15 lbs. food grade sand/gravel
  • Model #N210 includes approx. 100 lbs.Calcite (2 bags 40-50 lbs. also known as food grade limestone)
  • Model #N225 includes 1 bag approx. 45-50 lbs. of Calcite and 1 bag approx. 28-30 lbs. Corosex
  • We offer food grade replacement media (Calcite and Corosex) for these systems

Step 1: Determine correct placement of Acid Neutralizer. Install on a flat, level surface. It should be placed after the well pressure tank and before any backwash type filter or water softener. This system should be in a protected, dry, non-freezing area and should not be installed in direct sunlight or outdoors. The maximum operating water temperature of this Acid Neutralizer System is 110°F (43.3°C). If your water pressure exceeds 80 psi you must install a pressure regulator. It's simple to check your water pressure with a "lazy hand" water test gauge.

Step 2: Turn off the main water supply. If you have a private well system, turn off the power to the pump and drain the pressure tank. Release pressure from the water pipes by opening a faucet to drain the system.

Note: If you have an electric water heater we recommend that you turn off the electricity to the water heater while installing this Acid Neutralizer.

Step 3: Connect the bypass valve to the head assembly.

assembly diagram of the bypass valve
The bypass valve comes with connection nuts, split rings, and o-rings shipped in a separate bag. Open the parts bag and slide one of the nuts over one of the non-threaded ports of the bypass valve. Then slide one of the split rings over the same port to snap in place in slot (A) nearest the body of the bypass valve. Now push the o-ring into place in slot (B) near the end of the port. Repeat this procedure for the other side. Once completed the bypass valve can be attached to the head. Tighten the connection nuts by hand only. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

Please note: Once in a while the bypass valves are mistakenly shipped with the handles not in the correct position to show the correct direction of the flow of water. This can be field corrected simply by gently lifting up and removing the red handles and repositioning them to indicate the correct direction of water flow.

Step 4: Connect the adapter fittings to the bypass valve. Attach the connection nuts, split rings, and o-rings to the adapter fittings the same way as explained in Step 3. Tighten the connection nuts on the adapter fittings onto the bypass valve by hand only. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
Note: The 90° PVC 3/4 slip x 1" spigot adapter fittings for PVC piping installations have a 1/4" mipt stem that can be drilled to make a test sample port.

Step 5: Connect piping to the House.

demonstration picture of acid neutralizer cap removal
Cut the main supply line as required to connect your piping to the inlet and outlet of the neutralizer. Your incoming water from a well or municipal water source will need to be connected to the port marked UPFLOW INLET on the head. The 5-gpm Dole valve (1") needs to be installed on the UPFLOW INLET side of the Acid Neutralizer. The inlet port has raised letters that say upflow inlet.

The inlet side of the up-flow head is the port on the right side when the head is installed onto the tank and both ports are facing you. Fittings (not provided) will be needed to adapt the Dole valve to and from your piping and to the adapter fittings on the bypass valve.

The outlet will need to be connected back to your main water supply going to your house. The outlet will be the port imprinted Downflow Inlet on the valve.

Step 6: Install the Sand/Gravel and Calcite or Corosex/Calcite mix.

demonstration picture of acid neutralizer cap removal
Remove the fill port cap. Use the fill port wrench by matching the pegs on the wrench with the slots on the fill cap. While holding the in and out ports of the head, pull the wrench in a counterclockwise motion to unscrew and remove the cap. Block the distributor tube opening by stuffing a clean rag into it to prevent any sand/gravel, Calcite and/or Corosex from falling down into the distributor tube while you are pouring them into the tank. Using a funnel (you can make a funnel or buy a $2 oil funnel locally), pour the approximately 15 pounds of Sand/Gravel into the fill port.

If you purchased the #N210 system, pour the entire 90-100 lbs. of Calcite into the fill port. The Calcite and the Sand/Gravel together should only fill the tank 3/4 full which is the correct level of media to be installed into the tank.

If you purchased the #N225 system, pour the entire 45-50 lbs. of Calcite and also the 28-30 lbs. of Corosex into the fill port. The Calcite/Corosex and the Sand/Gravel together should only fill the tank 1/2 full which is the correct level of media to be installed into the tank. (More media may be installed if extra media is purchased, but do not fill tank with media over 3/4 full and media measurement must be the same ratio of 5 lbs. Calcite to 3 lbs. Corosex)

Please note: Overfilling the tank may cause neutralizer media to enter the service line. More media may have been provided to you than is required for the initial filling of the tank. Save and use this extra media for future replenishment.

Step 7: Put the neutralizer into service. Remove the clean rag blocking the distributor tube opening. Do not replace the fill port cap just yet. Make sure the bypass valves are in the closed position. Slowly turn the main water supply back on. Using a garden hose or bucket, fill the tank with water through the fill port until water reaches the top of the basket inside the fill port. Now replace the fill port cap. Hand tighten the fill port cap until snug. Very slowly open the inlet of the bypass valve and then the outlet of the bypass valve. Open the cold side of the kitchen faucet and leave open until water runs free without spitting any air and until all milky white residue (caused by powder fines in the Calcite or Corosex generated during shipping and handling) is gone. If larger particles of media are observed in the discharge water, reduce the flow rate and then gradually increase the flow again. Continue to flush the neutralizer until the discharge water runs clear.

Step 8: Congratulations, the installation is now complete. Once you are satisfied with the installation, turn on a few hot and cold-water faucets, and let them run. Once you are certain that there is no more air in your pipes, then turn the electricity back on to the water heater.

Replacement Parts for Up-Flow Acid Neutralizers

Description Price & Quantity
10" x 44" Tank with IN-OUT Head with fill port and 45" Distributor tube
(bypass valve sold separately below)
$258.17 Enter a quantity and
Bypass Valve - for #N210 and #N225 Acid Neutralizer
- includes connection nuts, split rings, and o-rings
$37.06 Enter a quantity and
1" x 45" Distribution Tube with Basket - (for 10" diameter tanks up to 44" tall) $24.65 Enter a quantity and
1" x 49" Distribution Tube with Heavy Duty Stack Basket - (for 10" - 13" diameter tanks up to 48" tall) $30.88 Enter a quantity and
1" x 72" Distribution Tube with Heavy Duty Stack Basket - (for 10" - 13" diameter tanks up to 71" tall) $35.95 Enter a quantity and
IN-OUT Head with Fill Port - includes wrench
- connection adapters are needed to attach IN-OUT Head to piping;
order connection adapters with nuts, split rings, and o-rings separately below
$83.13 Enter a quantity and
3/4" Slip x 1" Spigot - PVC Solvent 90 connection adapters
- includes connection nuts, split rings, and o-ring - 1 set of 2 Each)
$9.76 Enter a quantity and
1" Plastic MALE - NPT connection adapters
- includes connection nuts, split rings, and o-ring - (1 set of 2 Each)
$14.00 Enter a quantity and

Related Items & Information

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "How do I know if my water is acidic?"
A. The telltale signs of acidic water (if you have copper pipe) are blue or green stains in the bottom of your sink or tub. If these appear or if you suspect you have acidic water, then a simple pH test will tell you whether your water is acidic or not.

Q. "How do I test for pH in my water?"
A. You can get a pH test kit at most any pool supply store. If your water has a pH of less then 7 then it is considered acidic and should be treated to raise it to 7 or above. We highly recommend any pH test be done on site at the water source. Driving a sample of water just 10 minutes away can cause a pH test to be inaccurate.

Q. "How do these systems increase the pH level?"
A. These systems operate by passing the acidic water through either the Calcite or Corosex minerals which are dissolved into the water to balance or increase the pH level.

Q. "Why does the acid neutralizer increase hardness?"
A. A calcite system uses crushed and screened white marble limestone which is dissolved in the water to neutralize acidic water. The dissolved limestone in the water is responsible for the increase in hardness. A Corosex system uses reactive Magnesium Oxide which, like calcite, is dissolved in the water.

Q. "My pH is 6.8 which is almost 7 (neutral). Do I really need to be concerned about correcting the pH or is it livable?"
A. Any pH level below 7 will cause your copper pipes to be eaten up over time. If this problem is ignored then you can expect to re-pipe your house in approximately 10-20 years.

Q. "What is Calcite and Corosex?"
A. Calcite and Corosex are both mineral substances that are found commonly in nature. Calcite is also known as food grade Limestone, and Corosex is a food grade magnesium oxide .

Q. "My PH is 6.4. How do I know if I need a Calcite or a Calcite/Corosex system?"
A. In most cases only Calcite needs to be used for pH balances between 5.9 and 6.9. However, if you are using just Calcite and find your pH is still falling below 7 then you can always add Corosex (magnesium oxide) to your system.

Q. "How much hardness will be added to my water if I install an Acid Neutralizer?"
A. There is no way to know exactly how much hardness will be added to your system by adding an Acid Neutralizer. The Calcite and the Corosex will add hardness but there are too many variable minerals and elements that can be in each different water supply to know for sure or even estimate how much hardness will be added.

Q. "Does an up-flow acid neutralizer raise a low pH problem better than a down-flow backwash type acid neutralizer?"
A. An up-flow acid neutralizer does not raise the pH better or worse than a down-flow backwash type acid neutralizer. Contact time with the the minerals (Calcite or Corosex) is the all important factor. Contact time is determined by the gallons per minute flowing through the acid neutralizer.

Q. "If I install an Acid Neutralizer will I also need to install a Water Softener?"
A. We suggest you first take care of the low pH problem and find out how the water feels to you after the Acid Neutralizer is installed for a period of time, then decide if you need a water softener.

Q. "My water pH is 6.2 but the hardness is 5 grains per gallon. I was told I need a water softener not an acid neutralizer. Is this true?"
A. No. Any time your pH is lower than 7 which is neutral, then you need to correct the pH. Adding a water softener to your system without first adding an Acid Neutralizer to correct your low pH problem could cause your water to be even more soft and aggressive than it is already.

Q. "How much does a cubic foot of calcite weigh?"
A. Between 90 to 100 pounds.

Q. "Ok, I tested my water and it has a pH of less then 5.5 what can I do?"
A. There are other methods that must be considered such as a chemical metering pump to feed a liquid solution of soda ash or sodium hydroxide into the water system. It would be best to contact a local water treatment company for this type of system. Due to liability potential (and keeping our customer satisfaction above 99%) we do not offer systems for a pH of less than 5.5.

Q. "Why don't you also offer a liquid feed type system?"
A. Our system is virtually foolproof. A liquid feed system is a much more complex system and should be installed by a professional. There is much more that can go wrong with that type of system. It boils down to liability.

Q. "What brand is the system that you sell?"
A. We put this system together using top quality components from different manufacturers. It's the only way, we believe, we can offer the best at this price. No advertising overhead to pay for.

Q. "How often will I have to add neutralizing media?"
A. It depends on how acidic your water is, and the amount of water that you use. It's best to re-check your pH level once a month. A low priced pool pH test kit is usually all that you will need. When the pH level starts to drop then it's time to add media. Some customers don't have to add any media for a few years and some need to add in a few months. When your neutralizer starts to not neutralize as much, it's probably time to add media. Click here when ready to order some neutralizing media.

Q. "Are the two systems that you offer physically the same?"
A. Yes, the only difference between the two systems is the composition of the media.

Q. "Your standard system says it has a manual backwash. How will I know when to backwash the system?"
A. Normally when the media starts to compact the pressure will drop. This is an indicator that the system needs to be back-washed. There are systems that offer automatic backwash that work with timers. We don't recommend them because they don't take into account your water usage when determining when to backwash. If you "insist" then see the following faq.

Q. "What are the negatives of using an automatic backwash system?"
A. If you purchase an automatic system it will backwash more than needed and will use (waste) a significant additional amount of media. This is the reason that we do not feature them. They are convenient but we do want our customers to know that automatic backwash neutralizers use a lot more media.

Q. "How do I adjust the neutralizer for my specific pH level?"
A. One of the nice features of the way they work is that there is no adjustment necessary. Many times one's water might have a pH of 5.8, and a few days later it might be 6.5. That is one of the reasons we refuse to sell metered systems. On our units, the more aggressive the water is, the more calcite/Coresex will be dissolved by the water.

Q. "How long should I backwash?"
A. You shouldn't need to backwash for more than a few minutes. When backwashing it is best to keep the flow rate below 5 gpm.

Q. "How often will I have to add neutralizing media?"
A. It depends on how acidic your water is, and the amount of water that you use. It's best to re-check your pH level once a month. A low priced pool pH test kit is usually all that you will need. When the pH level starts to drop then it's time to add media. Some customers don't have to add any media for a few years and some need to add in a few months. When your neutralizer starts to not neutralize as much, it's probably time to add media. Click here when ready to order some neutralizing media.

Q. "What is the recommended flow rate for your acid neutralizer?"
A. For effective usage we recommend a flow rate of not more than 5gpm. (The system includes a 5gpm flow regulator.) If you need more than 5gpm, we recommend purchasing multiple units. Do not take out the 5-gallon per minute regulator. The 5gpm regulator is in the system for 2 reasons. The first is to ensure that the incoming water has enough "contact" time with the media. The second reason is for backwashing. If the neutralizer is back washed at a higher rate than 5gpm flow rate, it is possible it can cause damage to the distributor screen, particularly if there is not a filter before the acid neutralizer unit. Taking the 5gpm flow control out can create a "sandblasting" effect on the internals of the tank, causing damage to the distributor and possibly the tank. This neutralizer should last at least ten years (except you'll need to replenish the media) unless you put it in the sun, have it in freezing conditions or do not use the 5gpm flow restrictor. If you need more than 5 gpm, then you'll need to buy an additional unit(s) and place them side-by-side. If you take out the restrictor, you will not achieve what this unit is designed for. Any pH below 7 can cause problems to your copper pipes.

Q. "My copper piping is thin in places, and I would like to know the feasibility of moderately coating the inside of my copper piping with calcium to protect and strengthen the problem on a long-term basis?"
A. Installing an acid neutralizer will not help repair or coat your piping. All that you can hope to gain from an acid neutralizer (any brand), is that it will slow down or stop acidic water from causing any further damage to your copper pipes. Possibly an acid neutralizer can also stop your water from being toxic with too much copper residue. We cannot guarantee any results because water quality, gases, electrolysis, etc. is very complex, and even with thousands of dollars worth of testing, one cannot always be sure of the results with water treatment. If you have acidic water with copper, you must improve the condition of your water, and in most cases a quality acid neutralizer will help.

Q. "A friend of mine told me that an up-flow acid neutralizer is better. Is there any truth to that?"
A. The negative to a down-flow system is that the neutralizing media can "cake" easier than an up-flow system. That is the only positive that we can see with an up-flow system. Our down-flow system will have less loss (waste) of media, and you will get less uncontrolled media into your home with our down-flow system. Generally our system will have better "contact" time (your water flowing through the media). We could easily sell an up-flow system instead or offer both. We believe that our system works better for neutralizing water, but please understand, there is no "perfect" system.

Q. "How do I adjust the neutralizer for my specific pH level?"
A. One of the nice features of our up-flow acid neutralizers is that no adjustment is necessary. Water conditions in wells can change from day to day. Your water might have a pH of 5.8 one day and a few days later it might be 6.5. With our up-flow style units, the more aggressive the water is, the more the Calcite/Corosex will be dissolved into the water.

Q. "What is the total height from the floor to the control inlets/outlets?"
A. Approximately 46 3/8" on both models (the only difference between the two models is the mixture/content of the media). View complete dimensions for these Acid Neutralizers here

Q. "Five gallons per minute doesn't seem like enough for my family. Can I increase the gallons per minute or not use your flow regulator?"
A. Our acid neutralizers work best at 5 gallons per minute or less. In order to best raise your pH the water has to have "contact" time with the media. That means a relatively low flow rate. You can install/purchase two (or more) units and place them next to each other to increase the flow rate but do not remove the 5 gallon per minute flow regulator as it is part of the design of these neutralizers. Most people learn to live with 5 gallons per minute but for some families (or if you have very low pressures) 5 gallons per minute is not an acceptable amount of flow.

Q. "If I buy the corosex/calcite combination model N225, which media will be used more (which will dissolve faster)?"
A. Corosex generally dissolves at about twice the rate of the calcite. The main purpose of the calcite in the model N225 is to prevent the corosex from clumping together. Your #225 comes with more calcite than corosex. Since corosex dissolves faster, when you reorder/install replacement media we suggest ordering/installing two parts corosex and one part calcite.

Q. "My pH is 3.0, my hardness is 43 grains, etc ... Can you tell me what I need?"
A. We sell top quality products for many water needs, however due to liability reasons, we will not recommend which system you need. Please note that the systems that we sell are very good at solving specific water problems. We can't say if it will solve your problem. If you know what you need we can sell it to you at a great price.

Q. "My water has a pH of over 9. Do you offer systems that can reduce my pH to near 7?"
A. Sorry but that type of system can be very complex (such as adding white vinegar by chemical feed, etc), and we prefer to not offer them as we believe that it is best for you to buy that type of complex system from a local water expert who would know more about local water quality issues.

Q. "I currently have an acid neutralizer that uses soda ash as the neutralizing media. Can I add your Model #N210 to my current system to raise my low pH to 7.0 or above?"
A. Soda ash is sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) and acts very similar to calcite, calcium carbonate (CaCO3), in treating low pH water conditions. We sell calcite systems because we believe the calcium carbonate is better for you than drinking the sodium the sodium carbonate systems put into the water. If the sodium carbonate is not raising the pH high enough then the chances are the calcium carbonate may not have any better effect on your water. Every water situation has a different chemical make-up and we are unable to say for sure our system will help you in this case. Using the N225 Acid Neutralizer with a mixture of Calcium Carbonate and Corosex (magnesium oxide) may work better for your situation, but we cannot guarantee it will work for you. If you already have neutralizing equipment, sometimes it can be best to try different neutralizing medias. Or, we suggest you take your water in to a lab and have a chemist analyze your water condition and diagnose your water to determine what neutralizer media will work best for your particular water.

Q. "Do we need both a pre-filter and a post filter?"
A. We recommend a 1" sediment filter be installed before the system to filter any sediment or turbidity out of the incoming water because upflow systems are not able to be back-washed. This means any sediment that enters the tank will stay in the bottom of the tank since it is heavier than the calcite or corosex media. This will not be a problem with very little sediment but can be a problem if there are a lot of particles entering the tank. The only way to then clean out the sediment will be to turn off the bypass valves, disassemble the tank head so the entire contents of the tank can be emptied and the tank cleaned out. The gravel and media (calcite and/or corosex) will then need to be put back in and the tank reassembled. We also recommend the same type of filter be used as a post-filter to catch any possible small chunks of undissolved calcite or corosex that may slip through the system. The filter will catch them and they will eventually be dissolved by the water flowing through the filter.

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