Hard To Find Toilet Parts For Old Case Toilets

Case brand toilets - no longer manufactured - were some of the finest toilets ever made. Those that still have them, don't want to give them up! That is why we, at PlumbingSupply.com®, offer an extensive line of repair parts, obsolete replacement toilet tank lids and toilet seats just for Case toilets.

Most Requested Replacement Part For Case Toilets

Case 5150
Case #5150 Ballcock Valve = $281.24
Please note: The Case #5150 will not replace the #57 Ballcock Valve
- OR - View Cart

Case 5129
Case #5129 Flush Valve = $94.31
- OR - View Cart

to an extensive selection case toilet parts - to Case toilet seats

Case 5121
Case #5121 (SP-21) Repair Kit For 5150 Fill Valve = $60.60
- OR - View Cart

Briggs tank ball model 5169
Case #5169 Replacement Tank Ball = $4.75
For #5129 Flush Valve and #5127 Trip Lever Kit
- OR - View Cart

Case 5127
Case #5127 (SP-27) Trip Lever Kit For Case A, 1000, 1100, 3000 = $99.83
- OR - View Cart

Case 5127 lift wire only
Case #5127 6" Lift Wire ONLY = $3.09
- OR - View Cart

Case 5119
Case #5119 (SP-19) Repair Kit For 5163, 5164 Fill Valves = $37.28
- OR - View Cart

to Case toilet parts - to hard to find Case tank lids

Case 5147
Case #5147 Plunger For Case 5150 = $28.27
- OR - View Cart

Case 5188
Case #5188 Flush Valve = $101.35
- OR - View Cart

Case 5173
Case #5173 Flapper for 5188 Flush Valve = $12.44
- OR - View Cart

Case 5076
Case #5076 Volume Control For 5163, 5164 Fill Valve = $8.32
- OR - View Cart

Case 5118
Case #5118 Plunger Assembly For 5166 Fill Valve = $13.26
- OR - View Cart

to Case toilet seats - to Case toilet parts - to hard to find Case tank lids

Case 5126
Case #5126 Repair Parts (Hush Tube, 3 upper vac, breaker gaskets, 2 screws) = $22.81
- OR - View Cart

Case Toilet Parts Related Items

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "The cost for repair parts for these toilets seems a little expensive, compared to parts for most other toilets. Why is this, and can I use other parts instead?"
A. The Case Toilet Company has been out of existence for a number of decades, and their parts are rare and difficult to find. In relation to the huge number of toilets installed around the world, there are relatively few Case toilets still in use. This makes the need for their parts less common, and so manufacturing them is more costly. However, for the most part, only parts made specifically for Case toilets will work. View our page for hard-to-find Case toilet repair parts.

Q. "The part you have pictured doesn't look like the part in my toilet, but you say it's the same thing. Will this part work for me?"
A. Maybe. Because Case toilets were discontinued so long ago, it is extremely difficult to find parts for these toilets. In addition, over the years Case (and eventually Briggs when they purchased Case) updated or changed parts to make them more efficient or keep up with manufacturing demands. This means that an older Case toilet may use a slightly different version of a particular valve than a newer Case toilet. The replacement valves we offer are the most recent version of the part (since we can't get older versions), and so the repair parts we offer are intended for these valves. They may work for older valves or they may not, but we cannot be certain a specific part will work for your situation. We encourage you to review our return policy and then stay positive and embrace the adventure of owning a toilet that was discontinued generations ago.

Q. "What is the best way to replace my tank ball?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: First, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. The tank ball will most likely be deteriorating and you will get your hands dirty. Or, you may wish to use some latex gloves. Reach in and with one hand lift the wire attached to the tank ball. With your other hand unscrew the tank ball from the lift wire. In some cases, depending on age of product and water conditions, the lift wire may be corroded and break as you try to unscrew the tank ball. Replace the lift wire if necessary. Replace the tank ball with an identical size tank ball. Screw the new tank ball onto the lift wire. Be careful of older brass parts inside your toilet so as not to break or damage them and cause you more problems. Now turn the water back on and allow the tank to fill up. The water fill valve should not leak once the tank is filled (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend some food coloring be put into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the tank ball is not the correct one or the surface where the tank ball sits has eroded (feel below where the tank ball touches the seat of the flush valve and see if you can feel erosion or possibly a small groove). Also check to make sure the lift wires are not bent and allow the ball to lift and drop easily and centered onto the flush valve seat.

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.

2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of cross lever and above the support of the float rod and press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.

return to top ↑

Copyright© 1995-2024 PlumbingSupply.com.
All Rights Reserved.