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Old Fashioned Case 4100 Toilet Repair Parts

Replacement parts for your Case 4100 toilet is just a click away! Repair parts can be hard to find, but we've got them here at®. Not sure which Case toilet you have? Click here and view all the different models we offer parts for.

Case Toilet Model #4100

4100 Toilet

Complete Rebuild Kit for Case #4100



Case 4100 Complete Rebuild Kit = $244.03
Includes: 5164 Ballcock, 5188 Flush Valve and 5106 Trip Lever
Save money by purchasing the complete rebuild kit

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Case #4100 Replacement Toilet Parts

Click Image Below Description Price & Quantity
#5164 Ballcock $186.27
#5161 Diverter - less pump assembly brass u-bend, tubing & clamps
- may also need #5112 Pump Assembly
#5188 Flush Valve $84.70
#5112 Pump Assembly for #5161 Diverter $32.44
#5119 Repair Kit for #5163 & #5164 Ballcock $30.36
#5173 Flapper - available separately $9.89
#5106 Flush Lever
Your trip lever must match the dimension of the lever arm shown here in order to fit
#5101 Conversion Kit - For Older Case Fill Valves $86.94

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Not sure which model toilet you have? Try looking under the toilet tank lid or inside of the toilet tank.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "The cost for repair parts for these toilets seems a little expensive, compared to parts for most other toilets. Why is this, and can I use other parts instead?"
A. The Case Toilet Company has been out of existence for a number of decades, and their parts are rare and difficult to find. In relation to the huge number of toilets installed around the world, there are relatively few Case toilets still in use. This makes the need for their parts less common, and so manufacturing them is more costly. However, for the most part, only parts made specifically for Case toilets will work. Click here for hard-to-find Case toilet repair parts.

Q. "What is the best way to replace my tank ball?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: First, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. The tank ball will most likely be deteriorating and you will get your hands dirty. Or, you may wish to use some latex gloves. Reach in and with one hand lift the wire attached to the tank ball. With your other hand unscrew the tank ball from the lift wire. In some cases, depending on age of product and water conditions, the lift wire may be corroded and break as you try to unscrew the tank ball. Replace the lift wire if necessary. Replace the tank ball with an identical size tank ball. Screw the new tank ball onto the lift wire. Be careful of older brass parts inside your toilet so as not to break or damage them and cause you more problems. Now turn the water back on and allow the tank to fill up. The water fill valve should not leak once the tank is filled (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend some food coloring be put into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the tank ball is not the correct one or the surface where the tank ball sits has eroded (feel below where the tank ball touches the seat of the flush valve and see if you can feel erosion or possibly a small groove). Also check to make sure the lift wires are not bent and allow the ball to lift and drop easily and centered onto the flush valve seat.

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.

2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of cross lever and above the support of the float rod and press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.

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Toilet Repair Information & FAQs

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