Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "The cost for repair parts for these toilets seems a little expensive, compared to parts for most other toilets. Why is this, and can I use other parts instead?"
A. The Case Toilet Company has been out of existence for a number of decades, and their parts are rare and difficult to find. In relation to the huge number of toilets installed around the world, there are relatively few Case toilets still in use. This makes the need for their parts less common, and so manufacturing them is more costly. However, for the most part, only parts made specifically for Case toilets will work. Click here for hard-to-find Case toilet repair parts.
Q. "What is the best way to replace my tank ball?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: First, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. The tank ball will most likely be deteriorating and you will get your hands dirty. Or, you may wish to use some latex gloves. Reach in and with one hand lift the wire attached to the tank ball. With your other hand unscrew the tank ball from the lift wire. In some cases, depending on age of product and water conditions, the lift wire may be corroded and break as you try to unscrew the tank ball. Replace the lift wire if necessary. Replace the tank ball with an identical size tank ball. Screw the new tank ball onto the lift wire. Be careful of older brass parts inside your toilet so as not to break or damage them and cause you more problems. Now turn the water back on and allow the tank to fill up. The water fill valve should not leak once the tank is filled (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend some food coloring be put into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the tank ball is not the correct one or the surface where the tank ball sits has eroded (feel below where the tank ball touches the seat of the flush valve and see if you can feel erosion or possibly a small groove). Also check to make sure the lift wires are not bent and allow the ball to lift and drop easily and centered onto the flush valve seat.
Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.
2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of cross lever and above the support of the float rod and press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.
Q. "You show two parts breakdowns for the Briggs #6006 / Case #9100 Toilets. One built Prior To 1976 & After 1980, and the other one Built From 1976 To 1980. Both show the same #5164 Ballcock With Diverter as the replacement part for the original ballcock. However, each parts breakdown shows a different number for the diverter replacement. How can they both use the same ballcock/fill valve WITH diverter if they each use different diverters?"
A. If you are replacing the entire Ballcock WITH Diverter, the Diverter included with the #5164 Ballcock/fill valve will be compatible with the fill valve it comes with. If you are going to replace the Diverter only for your original ballcock, it will be necessary to know the year of your toilet to be able to accurately determine which Diverter will work for your specific toilet.