Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "Why is the max flow lower for the staged turn on?"
A. The heating modules are set up differently to accommodate different flow rates.
Q. "What's the difference between the parallel turn on and the staged turn on?"
A. The parallel turn on will give you a higher maximum flow rate, and it needs a higher flow rate to turn on than the staged turn on. The staged turn on will turn on with a lower flow rate, and it handles a lower maximum flow rate than the parallel turn on.
Q. "How does the staged turn on work?"
A. Staged turn on models only use the heating modules needed to produce the desired output temperature.
Q. "Does the kW listed under each model represent the amount of energy they use if all the heating elements are on?"
A. Yes, the specification for kilowatt usage for all models show the maximum wattage with all heating elements on.
Q. "Are the single point, flow controlled and MARINE/RV water heaters field adjustable?"
A. No, only water heaters that say they are thermostatic allow you to adjust the temperature of the water heater.
Q. "When it says "turns on with at least .5 or .7 GPM" how do I know which water heaters turn on at .5GPM or.7GPM?"
A. The water heaters that have a temperature listed under the .5GPM flow column are the water heaters that will turn on with only .5GPM. If there is no temperature listed in the .5GPM column, then the water heater starts when there is .7GPM flow.
Q. "Are all Eemax tankless water heaters designed to be hardwired?"
A. Yes, every tankless water heater by Eemax is supposed to be hardwired when it's installed.
Q. "Why does it say the water heater can have 3/8" or 1/2" pipe compression fittings?"
A. The water heater comes with an adapter so the pipe compression fittings can be used as 3/8" or 1/2" pipe.
Q. "Why does it say the water heater can have a top or rear entry electric?"
A. There are holes made in the top and the rear so the customer can set up the tankless water heater as a top entry or a rear entry electric. The choice is left up to the customer when they install the water heater.
Q. "Why does it say the water heater can have a bottom or rear entry electric?"
A. There are holes made in the bottom and the rear so the customer can set up the tankless water heater as a bottom entry or a rear entry electric. The choice is left up to the customer when they install the water heater.
Q. "Your products specify the 'temp. rise' based on the GPM flow; what do you mean by this?"
A. Temperature rise is the amount the heater raises the temperature of the incoming water, based on the flow rate shown of that water. If you don't know what your incoming water temperature is, we offer a chart that shows average groundwater temperatures in the USA, or you can check with your local water district for the actual temperature in your area. Please note this can be adjusted by any sort of preheating (such as solar heaters).
Q. "How much do I need to raise my incoming ground water temperature for ____________"
A. This is a highly personal question as everyone's opinion is different. Combine that with the differences in incoming water temperatures and you have a different answer for each installation. However, a lot of studies have been done on what people (on average) find comfortable, so we can give you some very general numbers to help you narrow the possibilities. These studies have shown that most people are comfortable washing their hands at near body temperature and find showers comfortable at 90°F to 110°F, depending on whether they prefer cool or hot showers. Nearly everyone agrees that 57°F is too chilly for comfortable handwashing, much less showering.
Q. "I am looking for an electric tankless water heater having less than 15 amps 120volt. Do you offer any?"
A. Unfortunately low amperage/wattage doesn't produce much "instant" heat (no matter what). The elements that we offer are almost 100% efficient (meaning that almost all of the heat that an electric element produces is already transferred into the water). You simply can't buy any brand (anywhere) of tankless water heater that uses less than 15 amps at 110volts that will give you much of a heat rise. We wish it possible as we would be able to sell many more electric tankless water heaters. If you only have 110-120 volts you might wish to consider using a small water heater instead of a tankless heater. Just click here to see those.
Q. "Can I install these tankless water heaters in my attic?"
A. Without seeing all of your plumbing piping, etc. it is difficult for us to answer with a straight "yes" or "no." One must be sure that a possible water siphoning condition can not be created as these fantastic electric tankless water heaters can not have air in the lines. Water siphoning out of any brand of electric tankless water heater might damage the heater or element when the element is on and there is no water (or not enough water) in the lines. Air should not be touching the elements.
Q. "I'm hearing a lot about lead-free these days. What does that have to do with plumbing products and how does the new lead-free legislation affect me?"
A. Basically, the laws implemented Jan. 1st, 2014 require plumbing products that come in contact with drinking water to be "essentially lead free" (less than 0.25% weighted average). For further information about how the law determines what is "lead free", rules regarding which plumbing products must be "lead free", and who these laws will affect, please click here.