Water Heating Related Products
PlumbingSupply.com® is your source for water heating related products. Below you will find everything from instant hot-water dispensers and point-of-use water heaters to replacement anode rods, T & P valves and water heater timers. PlumbingSupply.com® offers thousands of plumbing related products - if you need it, we've got it.
to Tiny Titan replacement parts
- to tankless water heaters
Water Heater Thermal Expansion Tanks
Protect your plumbing in the event of a pressure increase with these quality thermal expansion tanks
When comparing our expansion tanks with others, be sure to check if theirs
is also for potable (drinking) water, and not only for hydronic systems (not potable) water.
Some other tanks are not designed for high pressure or drinking water.
Great Selection of Quality Temperature & Pressure Relief Valves
|Brass Temperature & Pressure Relief Valves for Water:
|1/2" with 150psi, standard style
- up to 15,000 BTU/hr - CSA Rating
|3/4" with 150psi, extra short probe style
- up to 95,000 BTU/hr- CSA Rating
|3/4" with 150psi - extra long 8" probe style
- up to 105,000 BTU/hr - CSA Rating
|3/4" with 150psi, extended shank - 2 1/2"
- up to 105,000 BTU/hr - CSA Rating
|3/4" with 150psi The "standard" one
- up to 105,000 BTU/hr - CSA Rating
Order 10 or more of the same item for greater savings!
|3/4" with 150psi - high capacity
- up to 205,000 BTU/hr - CSA Rating
|3/4" with 175psi*, standard length
- up to 95,000 BTU/hr - CSA Rating
|1" with 150psi,
- up to 500,000 BTU - CSA Rating
*Note: 175psi is generally not used for standard water heaters.
It's best to check with local codes and the manufacturer's specifications of your product(s) as to what PSI is required.
Hot/Cold Heat Trapper Nipple Set for Water Heaters
Designed for water heaters, these trapper nipples save you money by lowering energy costs related to your water heater. The Heat trapper includes two dielectric waterway fittings, a cold water inlet (blue) with a thermoplastic ball that floats and a hot water outlet (red) with a fluoroplastic ball that sinks. When water flow stops, both balls move to their seats. Each seat is equipped with a safety relief port. When water is not flowing, heat is effectively trapped in the water heater. It cannot escape into the piping system thereby reducing standby heat loss. Because the water heater does not cycle as often, less energy is required and utility bills are reduced.
3/4" MPT Heat Trapper Nipple Set (Hot and Cold) = $10.84
View more information about anode rods and how they effect your water heater
View more available parts for the Tiny Titan water heater
View more available parts for Ariston water heaters
|Heavy Duty Water Heater Stand
||This water heater stand features:
- Heavy duty 14 gauge galvanized steel construction
- Quick to assemble
- Approximately 21.5" square x 18" high
- Corrosion resistant
- Rated up to 650 lbs
- Holds most tank-style water heaters up to 50 gallon capacity (max diameter 22")
- Includes mounting clips for securing to wall/floor
- Meets UPC requirements
Heavy Duty Galvanized Water Heater Stand = $82.98
Related Items & Information
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "Why would anyone need an expansion tank?"
A. Water is incompressible. Unlike air, it's impossible to squeeze any quantity of water into a smaller volume. Where that matters is in "closed" water systems such as a water heater with a check valve (pressure regulator and the like) ahead of the heater. When the water gets heated it expands and that extra volume has to go someplace. Without an expansion tank the pressure could rise to a dangerous level in a closed system. A diaphragm type of expansion tank (such as what we sell) is a pressure vessel that contains a flexible membrane totally separating the water from a captive volume of air. Air compresses and as the water temperature rises, creating extra pressure/space, the air in the vessel accommodates that increase. Thereby preventing a potentially dangerous pressure rise.
Q. "I have a sulfur odor smell coming from the hot water side of my faucets. A friend of mine told me that it might be caused by my water heater anode rod. Is that true and if so, if I remove the anode rod will the odors go away?"
A. Removing your anode rod will not cure the odor problem, will cause damage to the water heater tank much sooner than normal and will void your warranty. In many cases the odor is hydrogen sulfide gas. The source is sulfate reducing bacteria which is present in many water systems. That bacteria in most cases is harmless but thrives in the hot water environment. Water temperatures of about 140°F - 170°F makes for a rich growth medium. This type of anaerobic bacteria feeds off the hydrogen gas produced by magnesium anode rods. Periodic flushing of the tank with bleach solution will reduce the problem. Because there are so many factors we can not guarantee that the odor will be eliminated, but if you have no odor on the cold side of a faucet and only the warm side generally (not 100%), replacing a magnesium anode rod with one of our Aluminum/Zinc/Tin rods can help solve the problem. Some water heater manufacturers' claim that softened water causes the problems, but that is not a proven fact. Removal of the bacteria will also solve the odor problem. Sanitizing the water heater (with safe levels of bleach, etc), will eliminate the odor but only for a variable (relatively short) length of time. A trace amount of H2S gas in the water is another cause of hot water odor but removal of the anode rod will not cure that odor problem either. It is best to always have an anode rod in your glass-lined steel water heater tank.
Q. "Why is there a hole near the top of your dip tubes?"
A. The reason for the hole is to break siphonage effect when the water is shut off and there is a drain down situation (caused by such things as a valve or a leak that is below the waterheater). A common example would be in a mobile home water heater, where the water supply is nearly almost always under the floor. If the water gets shutoff (for whatever reason), without that hole, the diptube could possibly backsiphon (empty most of the water and drain it to the level of the inlet on the cold water diptube), burning up the elements or possibly allowing the gas burners to damage the near empty water heater. Bottom line, it's for safety.
Q. "I have a rattling sound coming from my water heater when the hot water is running?"
A. Check to see if you have check valve type nipples installed on the top of your water heater. They generally look like ordinary galvanized nipples and so sometimes it is hard to tell if they are installed. Some water heaters come with them. They are a great idea because they can save some energy, but they also can be very annoying.
Q. "You say these anode rods can be cut to fit my tank. What is the best way to cut an anode rod?"
A. Anode rods should be only a few inches shorter than your water heater. If the anode rod is too long, they can be cut down using a hacksaw.
Q. "You show a CSA Rating for the temperature and pressure relief valves. What does the CSA rating refer to?"
A. The CSA rating refers to the temperature steam rating of the temperature and pressure relief valves to confirm they are in compliance with ANSI standard Z21.22. They are tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory that periodically inspects products to make sure they are in compliance. This rating is used to size temperature and pressure relief valves to ensure they will discharge adequate water as needed when the temperature exceeds the BTU input rating of the tank for which they will be used. The temperature and pressure relief valve must be able to discharge more BTU's than the heater is capable of putting into the water.
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