Hand Pump

This beautifully constructed hand pump is both functional and decorative. We have sold hundreds to home owners as a back-up during power outages and to gardeners for the perfect finishing touch to their fountain, pond or other garden displays.

Hand pump
Hand operated pitcher pump
  • Heavy cast iron construction
  • Open spout 15 3/4" high
  • Tapped for 1 1/4" drop pipe
  • Rated for depths up to 24'
  • Easily installed
  • Primer enamel paint finish (chips fairly easily)

Hand Operated Pump #HPP-10 = $87.59

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Pitcher Pump Replacement Parts

Pitcher Pump Parts

Item Description Price & Quantity
1 Cup leather (3" x 2") - for plunger only #118P2 $10.64
2 Plunger rod (6-3/4" long) #118P4 $6.90
3 Plunger Cage #118P5 $9.49
4 Flat leather (3 1/2" x 2 7/8") - for base valve #118P7 $13.32
5 Threaded nut for plunger cage 1-7/8" dia. #118P10 $13.91
6 Bolts - (3/8" x 2") - for pump handle - cotter pins and washers included (1 Pair) #118P10 $5.86
7 Plunger Weight #118P6 $6.59
8 Weight, Bolt and Nut - for flat valve #118P8 $9.05
9 Pitcher Pump Handle - Includes 2ea. 3/8" x 2" bolts #118P14 $38.49
  Faucet Grease 2oz, safe for drinking water - for use on the leather cup or base flat leather $5.01

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How this pitcher pump works

This pump design is based on old fashioned ingenuity that dates back more than 100 years. The pump cylinder holds a plunger with a leather cup that sets above the base flat valve that works as a flapper valve. Directly above the leather cup and inside the plunger cage the plunger weight sits on top of the threaded nut and acts as a check valve. The handle is connected to the plunger and moves the plunger up and down.

When the handle is pulled up it pushes the plunger down against the weighted flat valve (flapper valve). As the handle is pushed down it lifts the plunger, creating a vacuum inside the cylinder causing the flat flapper valve at the base to open pulling water into the cylinder. When the plunger reaches the top of the cylinder the base flapper valve closes due to the weight of the water in the cylinder and water is trapped in the cylinder.

As the handle is pulled upwards again, pushing the plunger down towards the flapper valve again, water is forced out through the plunger weight still keeping water in the cylinder. When the handle is pushed down raising the plunger again, new water is brought into the cylinder forcing the water in the cylinder to exit out through the spout. A constant pumping of the handle creates a continuous water flow at a rate of approximately 1 gallon every 10 strokes.

This hand operated Pitcher Pump will pump water from a water level of 24 feet or less from the bottom of the pump. This distance is measured vertically from the spout of the pump to the actual water level where the water will be pulled from. You will need to deduct 1 foot for every 1000 foot elevation above sea level, and 1 foot for every 50 feet of horizontal pipe distance used in the drop pipe. This pump can be installed on a well, a barrel, or holding tank.

The drop pipe is the piping to be used to attach to the bottom of the pitcher pump and reach into your water source. The drop pipe can be PVC (we recommend schedule 40), galvanized, copper or any other potable (drinking water grade) piping. The bottom of the pump has 1-1/4" fips threads. For optimum water flow the drop piping used should not be smaller than 1-1/4" pipe. 1" piping can be used but will decrease the amount of water volume pumped out through the spout. Your drop pipe should be at least 5 feet longer than the actual water pumping level. This can help to allow for changing well water levels that can happen throughout the year.

The pump should never be operated without water to eliminate damage to the leather cup. Always fill the pump with water (called priming the pump) before operating the pump. Prime the pump by pouring water in the top of the pump until it flows out of the spout. Wait 4 or 5 minutes while the leather cup swells enough to make contact with the pump wall. Using short strokes, raise and lower the handle until the suction pipe fills with water. Add more water in the top of the pump if necessary. If the pump will not prime then check for leaks on the suction side. A leak will prevent the pump from priming.

The use of a foot valve will keep water in the drop pipe and eliminate the need to prime the pump. However, if freezing conditions can exist then the pump will need to be removed from the water source during the freezing season. Or, if the foot valve is removed the handle of the pump can be left in the up position (tied up as high as possible) to cause the pump to self drain. When the handle is lifted as high as possible the check valve (plunger weight) becomes tilted as the plunger is forced down on top of the bottom flat leather weight allowing air into the suction line to break the vacuum and drain the suction line.

If the pump is not used for a long period of time then some evaporation could occur causing the water to fall below the leather and drying out the leather. If the handle was operated water should still be lifted but damage to the leather might occur. If the pump has not been operated for a long period of time it would be best to prime the pump with a couple of cups of water and wait a few minutes while the leather cup swells enough to make contact with the pump wall.

Related Items & Accessories

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "Do you sell or know a source for hand pumps that pump from deeper wells?"
A. Sorry, but what we show is all that we sell as far as hand pumps. Pumps for deeper wells can get very complicated and they require a two-pipe system.

Q. "Do I need to prime this hand pump each time?"
A. We suggest you fill the pump with water (prime) before operating the pump to keep the leather cup from becoming damaged by dry use, especially if it has not been used for awhile. Sometimes (and certainly after time) you will need to use some quality basic faucet grease #LU020 on the leather cup and the flat leather at the base valve. If a foot valve or spring check valve is used then water will be kept in the drop pipe and eliminate the need to prime the pump each time.
Note: The choice of which one to use will depend on the installer preference and which one may be easier to replace should it fail in years to come.

Please note: The use of a check valve or foot valve will keep water in the pipe to the pump as well as inside the pump, so the pump and piping above the frost line will need to be protected from freezing conditions.

Q. "My hand pump used to work fine. Now it won't pump anymore. Any suggestions?"
A. Try using some quality faucet grease #LU020 on the leather cup or base flat leather. Many times this will expand the rubber/leather enough that it will work for you again. Make sure to use grease that is approved for drinking water (ours is).

Q. "What is a foot valve and how does it work?"
A. A foot valve is a check valve with a screen on it used on the suction end of the pipe to the pump. The screen is to keep debris from entering into the suction pipe line if used in a pond, lake, river, or stream. When the pump is activated, water is sucked into the foot valve through the screen and through the check valve and flows up to the pump. When the pump stops, water will stay in the line because the check valve in the foot valve will close and not allow the water to fall back through the foot valve.

Please note: The use of a check valve or foot valve will keep water to the pump and the pump will need to be protected from freezing conditions.

Q. "I'm told that installing a check valve on the inlet side of any brand of hand pump is a good idea. What do you think?"
A. For pumps used on very shallow water levels we don't think it matters much. But for deeper water levels (8' or deeper), or for older pumps, a good spring check valve in an accessible vertical section of your drop pipe or the use of a foot valve may work wonders for the pump's operation. It can keep you from the sometimes-aggravating need to prime it after each use.

Please note: The use of a check valve or foot valve will keep water to the pump and the pump will need to be protected from freezing conditions.

Q. "To pump water will I need anything besides the HPP-1 pump?"
A. You will need some 1 1/4" pipe (along with threads on at least one end). With PVC plastic pipe you will need a 1 1/4" male adapter #PVC436 (as well as your PVC pipe). With steel pipe you need 1 1/4" pipe with threads. You can also adapt from 1 1/4" to 1" and use 1" pipe. You can use almost any kind of potable (drinking water) grade pipe as long as it is fairly straight and reaches into your water source (and your water level is not deeper than 24' below the pump). Your pipe can be longer than 24'.

Q. "I have an old hand pump that I purchased elsewhere. Do you know where I can get parts for it?"
A. There are many different brands, with all different parts. We cannot stock or find parts for other brands. The hand pumps that we sell are pretty rugged. The manufacturer changes parts every so often, and we cannot guarantee the parts we offer will work on a pump you purchased from us in the past. It is extremely rare that one of ours fails within 3 years. Generally, all that ever goes wrong is that the leather cup dries up. For that we recommend using food-grade safe faucet grease (#LU020) on the leather diaphragm. If you bought your hand pump elsewhere, we do not wish to ship you parts that fit ours. We make this rule based on experience. We have found that our parts do not fit other brands of hand pumps and the return rate is simply too high for parts that people think might fit and then don't. We do not offer parts for hand pumps other than the ones we currently offer.

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