Heated Water Supply Valve for Mobile Homes
by Woodford Mfg.
Thermaline® Freezeless (Heated) Sanitary Water Supply Valve
FOR Potable Water
Protect the water service to your mobile home from freezing with a Thermaline® heated sanitary water valve.
- Female Inlet: 3/4" FIPT
- Male Outlet: 3/4" MIPT
- Head manufactured of cast brass
- Pressure molded polypropylene structural foam cover
- 15 watt, 110-120 volt removable insert heater with grounded 3-prong standard plug
- 15 watts costs approximately one penny a day to operate, even at temperatures at 50° below zero
- Riser pipe: 1" galvanized steel pipe reduced to 3/4" at both ends
- Operating pipe: 1/4" galvanized steel pipe
- Insulation: bonded polyurethane foam
- 3-1/4" diameter high strength plastic casing
- Compact design provides ideal protection wherever a freezeless supply line installation is needed - works great in campgrounds, mobile home parks & farms (livestock waterer)
- View rough-in schematic
- NOTE: Install the Thermaline next to the mobile home, not under it, to facilitate service of unit.
Thermaline® Repair Parts Listing
Unbolt and remove head covers to access handle, valve, and heater components.
Note: Items #5a, 6a, and 7a CANNOT be used with item #8 (part #85064) Head Nut Assembly.
Note: Old style heaters originally used in Thermalines with cast iron covers are replaced by items #11, 13, and 14.
#16 Operating Pipe
for Brass Head
#16 Operating Pipe
for Cast Iron Head
Replacement Heater & Heater Well
Related Items & Accessories
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "Water is leaking from around the brass stem when the hydrant is on. How do I fix this?"
A. The packing nut (item #6 or #6a in parts schematic) will occasionally need to be tightened to stop water leaking past the packing. Unbolt and remove the head covers. This will expose the handle and the packing nut. Tighten the packing nut snugly until the leak stops. If over time the leak persists then a new packing seal (item #7 or #7a) will be required to replace the old worn out one.
Q. "Water is leaking from the top of the stem when the hydrant is on. What can I do to fix this?"
A. The heater well thumb nut (item #11) may need to be tightened. Or, the heater well washer (item #12) may be missing or worn, or the heater well (item #13, #13a, #13b) may have a hole or split in it. To inspect the heater well, unplug the power cord. Unbolt and remove the head covers. Pull the heater and cord assembly straight up and out of the heater well. Remove the thumb nut (item #11), and the handle (item #5). Pull the heater well (item #13, #13a, #13b) straight up and out of the hydrant carefully so as not to bend or dent the heater well. Inspect the heater well for holes or possible splitting. Replace the heater well, or if the heater well looks good, reinstall the heater well. Reinstall the handle and the thumb nut and tighten the thumb nut. Slide the heater back into the heater well. Replace the head covers and bolt into place and plug-in the cord.
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