Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "How does it work?"
A. Simple! You'll install a FloodStop motorized ball valve(s) upstream of each supply line and place our water sensor on the floor behind the unit that needs detection. If water leaks due to a broken line or the failure of ANY internal component of your plumbing fixture, the control unit tells the motorized ball valve(s) to shut off the water and sound an alarm.
Q. "So these systems can help prevent leaks or flooding?"
A. They really can't help prevent leaks. They can help prevent flooding by shutting off the water if a leak happens.
Q. "If there is no electricity running to the valve (either because they haven't been hooked up or the sensor has touched water), are the valves normally open or closed?"
A. In their normal position, the FloodStop valves are open and will allow water to pass through; once water touches their sensor, the motorized ball valve is tripped and the valves are closed. The valve(s) will remain closed until the sensors are dried and the reset "Open" button is pressed. The Controller has a battery port for 4 X C size batteries, which will serve as a battery backup in case of a power outage. The same batteries will serve as the primary power source if a nearby electrical outlet is not available (battery life 1 year).
Q. "Does the FloodStop system shut off water to the whole house?"
A. No, this is a point of use product; it only shuts the water off at the source of the leak. Why shut off the water to your whole house if the cause of the problem is just at the water heater, for instance? Whole house systems are much more expensive and usually require a plumber to install.
Q. "What should I do after the system has detected a leak?"
A. If a leak has occurred, turn the manual valve(s) to the off position, investigate and repair/stop the leak, dry the sensor, and reset the controller by pressing the "Open" button.
Q. "Are FloodStop systems difficult to install?"
A. No, if you can install a garden hose, you can install FloodStop. Installation doesn't take long, and your home will be protected against many sources of water damage.
Q. "Why would I need to use the transformer extension wire?"
A. Unlike the washing machine and the icemaker, the water heater is not always located next to an electrical outlet, and so you may need to use the approximate 7-foot-long (86") low-voltage extension wire.
Q. "Why would I need an additional sensor?"
A. You can increase your area of protection by adding extra sensors near the fixtures or appliances you have selected to protect. If you want more protection for your water heater, additional sensors can be placed in your water heater's drain pan, as well as on the floor nearby (in case a leak sprays outside the pan), for example.
Q. "What about braided hoses, aren't they burst proof?"
A. You should use braided hoses whenever you can (especially on your washing machine), and take every precaution to avoid water damage, but hoses are not the only source of flooding. And, braided hoses are not burst proof, but only burst resistant. There are a wide variety of clamps, valves, pumps, drains, etc. inside many fixtures that can fail. (FloodStop was designed after the inventor suffered a home flood due to a switch failure that did not tell his washing machine when to stop filling with water. Water continued to run into the washer and flooded the house for 3 hours before it was discovered).
Q. "I'm hearing a lot about lead-free these days. What does that have to do with plumbing products and how does the new lead-free legislation affect me?"
A. Basically, the laws implemented Jan. 1st, 2014 require plumbing products that come in contact with drinking water to be "essentially lead free" (less than 0.25% weighted average). For further information about how the law determines what is "lead free", rules regarding which plumbing products must be "lead free", and who these laws will affect, please click here.