Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "What finish is best?"
A. We recommend (and stock) chrome finishes, as chrome is the most durable. However, if your bathroom design needs a brass or nickel finish, we are confident that those finishes also will stand up to years of use, if maintained correctly. We do not stock all brass and nickel finished items, though, so if timing is critical, please contact us before ordering.
Q. "With the old fashion style 1 3/8" o.d. bath tub drains, how do I adapt to my standard 1 1/2" threaded p-trap?"
A. We offer a 1 1/2" x 1 3/8" chrome slip joint nut along with a D style o-ring that will fit onto the 1 3/8" o.d. tubing. Simply order the slip joint nut and d-ring above which includes both the special reducing nut and the special o-ring.
Q. "Why are some of these spouts and hoses not to code in some areas?"
A. If a spout terminates below the top of a tub (or a showerhead is able to reach below the top of the tub) then there is a chance (however small) that should the tub be filled to the top and the water valve is on (still running), the legally potable (drinking) water then is touching non-potable water. When that happens there is an extremely small chance (but it is possible and therefore not code in some areas) that the potable water can become contaminated. If this is a concern or applicable, then please order only code style faucets. Most portable showerheads will be able to be placed below the top of the tub and therefore most portable hoses (no matter what brand) are not to code as well.
We do offer an in-line 1/2" vacuum breaker for shower hose connections above in either chrome or polished brass which some codes will allow for portable showerheads (but not all).
Again, some areas are very strict, and even with a vacuum breaker, where hoses could lay in water, some codes won't allow hoses at all. If your area has strict codes, then we do not recommend purchasing any shower hoses. We cannot be responsible, nor can we know what your area will or will not allow as far as code is concerned. Showerheads should not be laid down below the flood rim (not placed inside the tub) of a tub at any time.
We always recommend checking with your local code officials to confirm the applicable codes in your particular installation, especially when upgrading vintage plumbing
Q. "Why do you offer 1 3/8" tub drains instead of today's standard 1 1/2" outside diameter tubing?"
A. In the "old days" 1 3/8" used to be the "standard" for clawfoot drains and we want to offer the closest possible to the original early 1900's standard size.
Q. "Can't I just attach a standard 1/2" flex to your faucets?"
A. With the sink faucets you can. With the tub faucets you need to purchase the adapters (or offset risers) as the faucet comes with a non tapered 3/4" fitting.
Q. "If my washers fail, will the manufacturer replace them?"
A. No. The replacement of washers is considered to be normal wear and tear and must be done regularly to protect the seat. Washer deterioration is directly related to use, water quality and over tightening of the handles. The handles need only be tightened enough to stop the flow of water. If, after the leftover water in the spout has drained, the faucets continues to drip, tighten slightly until the flow stops. This will increase the life of your washers dramatically. Replacement washers are something that will need to be purchased locally as the manufacturer will not ship them as replacements. When replacing washers, it is imperative that great care be taken when removing and replacing the bonnet nuts. A soft piece of cloth needs to be used to protect the finish of the nut, and the nut should never be over tightened. It will cause the nuts to eventually crack.
Q. "I have a diverter tub spout and whenever I fill my tub with water from the tub spout only, I also get some dripping out of my shower head. What can I do to stop that?"
A. There could be many reasons why this is happening. One possible solution is to install a twin ell which is designed to help prevent the showerhead from dripping while the tub spout (diverter style) is filling the tub.
Q. "Some of the clawfoot tub faucet descriptions mention compression style shut-off valves. What does compression style mean?"
A. The compression style in this case is referring to the way the water is shut off when the valve is closed. The handle is attached to a stem with a rubber washer on the other end. As the handle is turned to close the valve (clockwise), the rubber washer is forced (compressed) against a brass or stainless steel "seat", which is the metal opening of the waterway, until the opening is closed and the waterflow is stopped.
Q. "Are your clawfoot products new/reproductions or refurbished/used products?"
A. All clawfoot products on our site are new. All products on our site (with the exception of the obsolete/used toilet tank lids we offer) are new.
We do not sell any used products with the exception of our tank lids.
Q. "Do you sell an extension kit for the 3/8" chrome risers on the Add-A-Shower units?"
A. We sell 3/8" chrome nipples and chrome couplings..
Q. "Is there any special care for increasing the longevity of my shower hose?"
A. Yes. After each use, it is very important that all of the kinks be removed from the hose before setting the handset on the bracket. Kinks left in the hose or any unusual twisting or pulling will eventually cause the hose to crack, unravel and begin to leak.