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Simple, straightforward and low shipping rates for these American Standard Antiquity toilet parts.

American Standard Toilet Parts - Antiquity Series

If you've been looking for replacement parts for your American Standard Antiquity toilet, your search stops here! Whether you need a fill valve or a flapper and chain, or you need to fix a leak or replace your bolt caps, we have what you need. For many more American Standard products, check here.

American Standard - Heritage

American Standard Toilet
The Antiquity One-Piece
Model# 2038.016

Order replacement parts for the Antiquity 1-piece toilet below

Replacement Toilet Parts For American Standard
Antiquity Series 1-pc Toilet
- Model #2038.016

A.S. Antiquity Series

Item # Part # Description Price & Quantity
#1 400A Fluidmaster 400A Fill Valve $8.98
#2 738378-0070A Flush Valve Assembly
- includes flapper and flush valve wrench
#3 738151-0070A Flapper & Chain - replaced by #047146-0070A $9.68
#4 738304-0070A Flush Valve Wrench $6.59
#5 730283-0020A Trip Lever - Chrome $56.42
730283-0200A Trip Lever - White $70.42
730283-2950A Trip Lever - Satin $75.26
J-928 "Will Fit" Chrome trip lever
- View more "will fit" finish options here
#6 034783-0200A Toilet Bolt Caps (2) - White
- Click here for more color options

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Not sure which model of toilet you have? Try looking under the toilet tank lid or inside of the toilet tank.

American Standard - Antiquity two piece toilet

American Standard Toilet
The Antiquity Two-Piece
Model# 2464.019

Order replacement parts for the Antiquity 2-piece toilet below

Replacement Toilet Parts For American Standard
Antiquity Series 2-pc Toilet

Models #2464.019 (elongated), #2264.017 (round), #2264.217 (floral)

A.S. Antiquity Series toilet repair parts diagram

Item # Part # Description Price & Quantity
#1 738402-0070A Fill Valve/Water Control Assembly - replaced by #738066-0070A $20.67
#2 738138-0070A Flush Valve Assembly
Replaced by "will fit" 738360-0070A (10-1/2" tall)
If needed, valve may be cut down to fit. Altered valves are non-returnable.
#3 738159-0070A Flapper for 738138-0070A - replaced by #7381129-200-0070A $14.87
2004BP Replacement Flapper for "will fit" 738360-0070A $6.49
#4 730288-2000A Side mount trip lever - Chrome/White $49.29
#5 034783-0200A Toilet Bolt Caps (2) - White
- Click here for more color options
  047158-0070A Tank to Bowl Coupling Kit $9.82

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "Why do you offer toilet seats for the Antiquity if they don't follow the shape of the toilet?"
A. Toilet seats, unlike the internal parts of the toilet, are cosmetic components and do not affect the function of the toilet, so as long as the bolts fit and the seat ring sits securely on the toilet bowl, it can be said to "fit". With some toilets, the special original toilet seat gets discontinued but we still have customers who are not ready to tear out their toilet just yet. For this reason, we offer a seat that will "fit" even if it might be considered by some to be less aesthetically pleasing than the original.

Q. "What is the difference between "OEM" and "will-fit" parts? And what does OEM mean anyway?"
A. OEM stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer". This means anything from the original manufacturer that is sold to a second company to use in production of that second company's product. In other words, many toilet manufacturers outsource for the internal working parts of the toilet, such as the fill valves, flush valves, or flappers. When this happens, they have the opportunity to use an existing part, or to spec something for the specific toilet. When the toilet manufacturer chooses to use an existing part, the manufacturer of the part can still sell that piece under their own name. If the toilet manufacturer chooses to spec something for the specific toilet, the part manufacturer can then only provide that part to the toilet manufacturer. What this means for you is that you can sometimes get the *exact same part* (by the original manufacturer of the OEM part), but under another name and at a better cost! So when your toilet's internal working parts need to be replaced, you may have the option to use either the "OEM" part number or use the "will-fit" part number to order what you need. Please note that only some "will-fit" items are manufactured by the OEM manufacturer. If this is essential to your repair, please feel free to contact us and we will be happy to check for you.

Q. "Are all American Standard® parts 'standard' and are ALL their products and parts made in America?"
A. A number of their products are made overseas (as is the case with many other plumbing manufacturers as well). Please do not assume that all products made by American Standard (Am. Stan.) are made in the U.S. The word "standard" and "American Standard®" are NOT identical. Most of their faucet parts will only fit their brand (as is the case with their competitors as well). Many of their toilet parts will only fit their brand of toilet. Not all of American Standard® parts are universal ("standard"). We get this question frequently, and it is probably because some people assume that since they have the word "standard" as part of their name that they must be using parts that are "standard"; as in universally fitting. Just as car bumpers don't fit on all brands of cars, parts for "standard" toilets and faucets will generally not fit on other brands. Generally you must buy parts specifically made for (designed to fit) your specific brand of toilet/faucets, etc.

Q. "What are the most commonly replaced toilet parts?"
A. This depends on several factors; each time you use your toilet the trip lever, flapper, and fill valve are operated. You will find, however, that the flapper and the fill valve are the parts most exposed to water and will be the first ones to wear out.

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and my new valve comes on (and then goes off) for a few seconds about once per hour?"
A. This could be caused by many things. The most common is with a Fluidmaster 400. This is a great valve but be sure to install the 1/4" tube per their instructions. Use the clip that comes with it and do not just stick it into the overflow tube or it will go on and off every so often by itself. If that isn't it, take some food coloring and place it in your tank. Wait a few hours and if some of the color has gone into the bowl then you probably need a new flapper.

Q. "Why does my toilet continue to run after flushing?"
A. If, after flushing, you find that the toilet continues to run, and you have discovered that by jiggling the handle it will stop; then the problem may be that the chain controlling the flapper is too long. When installing your flapper, you want the flapper chain's S-hook in the hole closest to the handle with very little slack in the chain itself. By doing so, when the toilet is flushed, the chain will fall behind the flapper where it won't snag and cause problems such as keeping the flapper from closing properly. Check to make sure that the flapper has enough clearance to close, i.e. not hitting the float ball when the water level drops. You also want to check to see that the toilet's flush handle (aka tank lever) is installed securely so it can't rotate too high, hitting the tank's lid or other parts and sticking.

Q. "What's the best way to replace my toilet flapper?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. Reach in and unhook the ears of the flapper and unhook the chain from the trip lever. Install an identical flapper to the original that came from the factory. Do expect to get your hands dirty from the old flapper. Simply reinstall the new one in reverse order. Note that should you have very old brass pipes inside of your toilet, be careful not to be rough on them. They can easily break and end up leaking. After you have replaced your flapper, and the toilet tank bowl has refilled, the water fill valve should not leak (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend putting some food coloring into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the flapper is not the correct one, the surface where the toilet flapper sits, has eroded (feel below where the flapper touched the toilet and see if you can feel erosion/groove) or you may only need to add some slack to the chain.

Q. "How long 'should' the parts inside of my toilet last?"
A. That depends on a number of variables and which parts. Water quality is one of the major factors. If your water source is heavily chlorinated then many parts won't last long. Or if you have a lot of sand or grit or have a low pH or "aggressive" water source then parts simply won't last as long as the 'average' length of time. Also the quality of the parts matters. The replaceable parts such as flappers and washers/seals generally will last at least 4 to 5 years on "average." If you use a chemical bowl cleaner some flappers won't even last one year. However, some toilet bowl cleaners isolate cleanser from the internal workings of the toilet therefore, maximizing the life of your toilet parts. Depending on the material make up, flappers will either deteriorate (leave residue on your skin when touched) or some will tend to harden or stiffen up and lose their original shape and flexibility. If this is the case, then it's best to change it.

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