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Simple, straightforward and low shipping rates for these American Standard Champion toilet parts.

American Standard Toilet Parts - Champion Series

Champion, Skyline, Oakmont, Doral, & Townsend Toilets

Keep your Champion 4 running smoothly with the hard to find replacement parts you need from®! Purchasing a new toilet just isn't always the way to go, and now you won't have to. Whether you're looking for a flush valve or a left hand trip lever, we've got the solution to your repair part needs. Looking for other American Standard parts? Click here.

Shown: Skyline Champion®4
American Standard Toilet
The Champion®4 Series

Order replacement parts for the Champion®4 series below

The models listed in the table below are the current two piece
Champion®4 series toilets available, and use the same internal components.

American Standard Champion®4 Series Toilets Toilet Model #'s Tank Model #'s
Champion®4 2002, 2018, 2023 4260, 4266
Skyline Champion®4 2067, 2219, 2221 4077
Doral Champion®4 2367, 2368, 2369 4272
Doral Classic Champion®4 2058, 2074, 2076 4281, 4281
Oakmont Champion®4 2625, 2627, 2738 4272
Townsend Champion®4 2733, 2735 4281

Replacement Toilet Parts For American Standard
Champion®4 Two Piece Series Toilets (see table above for reference)
American Standard Champion Series

Item # Part # Description Price & Quantity
1 400A Water Control Assembly (Fluidmaster)
- ("will fit" American Standard)
2 3175.002 Flush Valve - Replaced by New Style 3174.002-0070A
- Will fit in place of old style Champion flush valves
- includes flush valve seal and wrench for easy maintenance - (flush valve is 8 1/2" tall)
- Note: the MFR recommends ordering #738756-0070A Tank to Bowl Seal Kit when replacing this flush valve
3 738995-0020A Champion® 4 Trip Lever - Chrome - LEFT hand side $23.81
738997-0020A Champion® 4 Trip Lever - Chrome - RIGHT hand side $23.31
  J-954 Designer Trip Lever for AS Champion - Chrome
"Will-Fit" in place of #738995
Click here for more finish options
  738922-0020A Skyline Champion® 4 Trip Lever - Chrome $62.07
  738837-0020A Doral Classic/Townsend Champion® 4 Trip Lever - Chrome $56.69
  738835-0020A Oakmont Champion® 4 / Doral Champion® 4 Trip Lever - Chrome $49.68
  Old Style Seal Flush Valve Seal Only
For Old Style Champion 4 Flush Valve 3175.002
  7301111-0070A Flush Valve Seal Only - this item is included with #2 above
For New Style Champion 4 Flush Valve 3174.002-0070A
  Korky 450 Korky High Quality Replacement Seal For Champion 4 New Style Flush Valve 3174.002-0070A Only
- This item is similar to 7301111-0070A
  738756-0070A Tank To Bowl Seal Kit with installation instructions
The MFR recommends ordering this kit when replacing #3174.002-0070A flush valve
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Not sure which model toilet you have? Try looking under the toilet tank lid or inside of the toilet tank.

Toilet tank cleaners break down the materials in your toilet flappers and fill valves

Replacement Toilet Parts For American Standard
Champion®4 Series One Piece Toilets - Model's 2004 & 2034 (Right Height)
American Standard Champion Series

Item # Part # Description Price & Quantity
1 400A Water Control Assembly (Fluidmaster)
- ("will fit" American Standard)
2 3280-040-0070A Flush Valve Assembly with seal (adapter assembly sold separately) $36.51
3 738826-0070A Adapter Assembly - sold separately $83.27
4 738772-0020A Trip Lever - Chrome $19.83
738772-2950A Trip Lever - Satin $35.98
5 034783-0200A Bolt Caps (2) $4.58
  7301111-0070A Flush Valve Seal Only (not shown) - this item is included with #2 above
For New Style Champion 4 Flush Valve
  Korky 450 Korky High Quality Replacement Seal For Champion 4 New Style Flush Valve 3174.002-0070A Only
- This item is similar to 7301111-0070A
  *Old Style Seal Flush Valve Seal Only
For Old Style Champion 4 Flush Valves 3175.002
*Note: if your flush valve looks like this, then you have the old style flush valve and need to purchase the old style seal
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Old Style One-Piece Toilet Replacement Parts
Models 2000, 2005, 2149 (4049 tank model number)

Image of American Standard old style one-piece toilet
Part # Description Price & Quantity
Curtin #50 Canister style flush valve (replaced old #3) $103.57
3131-0750 Toilet Fill Valve - 11" Length
"will fit" some American Standard #4049 Tanks
3136-0580 Toilet Fill Valve - 13-3/4" Length
"will fit" some American Standard #4049 Tanks
3137-0980 Toilet Fill Valve - 11-1/2" Length
"will fit" some American Standard #4049 Tanks
3137-1550 Toilet Fill Valve - 9-3/4" Length
"will fit" some American Standard #4049 Tanks
47086-0700 Flush Valve (replaced old #4 flush valve) $36.82
73439-0200 Tank Lever - Chrome
For 47086-0700 flush valve
3518-0160 Tank Lever - Chrome
For Curtin #50 flush valve
Note: you will need to measure your existing fill valve to know which length to order.

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Chlorine, hard, and acidic water is what breaks down the rubber in your flapper and fill valves.
Save money and water by replacing these toilet parts before they wear out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "What does 'will fit' mean?"
A. "Will Fit" is a term used to define an item that may or may not be made by the original manufacturer (OEM), but will function just like the original part.

Q. "What is the difference between "OEM" and "will-fit" parts? And what does OEM mean anyway?"
A. "OEM stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer". This means anything from the original manufacturer that is sold to a second company to use in production of that second company's product. In other words, many toilet manufacturers outsource for the internal working parts of the toilet, such as the fill valves, flush valves, or flappers. When this happens, they have the opportunity to use an existing part, or to spec something for the specific toilet. When the toilet manufacturer chooses to use an existing part, the manufacturer of the part can still sell that piece under their own name. If the toilet manufacturer chooses to spec something for the specific toilet, the part manufacturer can then only provide that part to the toilet manufacturer. What this means for you is that you can sometimes get the *exact same part* (by the original manufacturer of the OEM part), but under another name and at a better cost! So when your toilet's internal working parts need to be replaced, you may have the option to use either the "OEM" part number or use the "will-fit" part number to order what you need. Please note that only some "will-fit" items are manufactured by the OEM manufacturer. If this is essential to your repair, please feel free to contact us and we will be happy to check for you.

Q. "Are all American Standard® parts 'standard' and are ALL their products and parts made in America?"
A. A number of their products are made overseas (as is the case with many other plumbing manufacturers as well). Please do not assume that all products made by American Standard (Am. Stan.) are made in the U.S. The word "standard" and "American Standard®" are NOT identical. Most of their faucet parts will only fit their brand (as is the case with their competitors as well). Many of their toilet parts will only fit their brand of toilet. Not all of American Standard® parts are universal ("standard"). We get this question frequently, and it is probably because some people assume that since they have the word "standard" as part of their name that they must be using parts that are "standard"; as in universally fitting. Just as car bumpers don't fit on all brands of cars, parts for "standard" toilets and faucets will generally not fit on other brands. Generally you must buy parts specifically made for (designed to fit) your specific brand of toilet/faucets, etc.

Q. "What are the most commonly replaced toilet parts?"
A. This depends on several factors; each time you use your toilet, the trip lever, flapper, and fill valve are operated. You will find, however, that the flapper and fill valve are the parts most exposed to water and will be the first ones to wear out in most cases.

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and my new valve comes on (and then goes off) for a few seconds about once per hour?"
A. This could be caused by many things. The most common is with a Fluidmaster 400. This is a great valve but be sure to install the 1/4" tube per their instructions. Use the clip that comes with it and do not just stick it into the overflow tube or it will go on and off every so often by itself. If that isn't it, take some food coloring and place it in your tank. Wait a few hours and if some of the color has gone into the bowl then you probably need a new flapper.

Q. "Why does my toilet continue to run after flushing?"
A. If, after flushing, you find that the toilet continues to run, and you have discovered that by jiggling the handle it will stop; then the problem may be that the chain controlling the flapper is too long. When installing your flapper, you want the flapper chain's S-hook in the hole closest to the handle with very little slack in the chain itself. By doing so, when the toilet is flushed, the chain will fall behind the flapper where it won't snag and cause problems such as keeping the flapper from closing properly. Check to make sure that the flapper has enough clearance to close, i.e. not hitting the float ball when the water level drops. You also want to check to see that the toilet's flush handle (aka tank lever) is installed securely so it can't rotate too high, hitting the tank's lid or other parts and sticking.

Q. "What's the best way to replace my toilet flapper?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. Reach in and unhook the ears of the flapper and unhook the chain from the trip lever. Install an identical flapper to the original that came from the factory. Do expect to get your hands dirty from the old flapper. Simply reinstall the new one in reverse order. Note that should you have very old brass pipes inside of your toilet, be careful not to be rough on them. They can easily break and end up leaking. After you have replaced your flapper, and the toilet tank bowl has refilled, the water fill valve should not leak (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend putting some food coloring into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the flapper is not the correct one, the surface where the toilet flapper sits, has eroded (feel below where the flapper touched the toilet and see if you can feel erosion/groove) or you may only need to add some slack to the chain.

Q. "How long 'should' the parts inside of my toilet last?"
A. That depends on a number of variables and which parts. Water quality is one of the major factors. If your water source is heavily chlorinated then many parts won't last long. Or if you have a lot of sand or grit or have a low pH or "aggressive" water source then parts simply won't last as long as the 'average' length of time. Also the quality of the parts matters. The replaceable parts such as flappers and washers/seals generally will last at least 4 to 5 years on "average." If you use a chemical bowl cleaner some flappers won't even last one year. However, some toilet bowl cleaners isolate cleanser from the internal workings of the toilet therefore, maximizing the life of your toilet parts. Depending on the material make up, flappers will either deteriorate (leave residue on your skin when touched) or some will tend to harden or stiffen up and lose their original shape and flexibility. If this is the case, then it's best to change it.

Q. "Can I change my 1.2 gpf Champion 4 to a 1.6?"
A. According to American Standard, to do this, you would replace your 1.2 gpf Champion 4 flush valve with a 1.6 gpf model #3174.002-0070A Champion 4 flush valve.

Q. "How are the toilet fill valve lengths measured?"
A. The toilet fill valve measurements we show are measured from the inside bottom of the tank to the top of the fill valve. The threaded water supply shank that fits through the bottom of the tank is not included in this measurement.

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