"Do you sell thermostats that will go to higher temperatures than my standard residential thermostat that came with my electric water heater?"
We aren't aware of any water heater company that will not void your warranty if you install a higher temperature thermostat. This is for two reasons: the lining of your residential tank probably isn't designed for continuous temperatures over 140 degrees and scalding liability potential. For that reason we also won't sell any electric thermostats that can go over standard temperatures.

"Can I increase the wattage to a higher wattage when replacing an element?"
Due to liability, we never recommend that you increase the element wattage over the original element installed by the manufacturer. We are not aware of any water heater manufacturer that will warranty a heater if you have changed wattages.

"What is the difference between High and Low-density elements?"
A low density element tends to last longer. If you are filling a water heater make sure to let all of the air out of the water heater before turning on the electricity to it. It is a good idea to let the hot sides of faucets run for at least a few minute without seeing any air coming from the faucets before turning the electricity back on to the heater.

"Which is better, one element or two on a water heater?"
In our opinion, there is NO doubt about which is best: two elements!
Most two element systems work like this: The upper element goes on first and once it is hot enough on top then the lower element goes on. If the water you are getting out of your heater comes from the top, why would anyone think that heating the bottom only is better? We think the only reason is to save manufacturing costs.

"Do you think electric water-heater timers are worth it?"
In almost all cases we believe that they should pay for themselves in a short time.

"What does incoloy mean?"
Extra long life, resists burn-out, and the effects of lime.

"I have an electric water heater that isn't working?"
For a water heater to work, you need the following:
1) Water in the tank; 2) Electric power to your heater; 3) Thermostats that work;
4) Elements that work.

"How do I check an electric water heater element? Should the elements be removed to check it, and do I need to drain the tank?"
It isn't necessary to remove the elements or drain the tank to test them, but the elements must be removed (and the tank drained) to replace them. To test the elements, you will need a voltage/OHM meter. Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced.
You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements:

• 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts
• 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts
• 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts

"What does high, low, and extra low density refer to?"
The density refers to the amount of watts per square inch. For example, high density is rated at 150+ watts per square inch, low density is rated at 75+ watts per square inch, and extra low density is rated at 50+ watts per square inch.