Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "What type of vent do these tankless water heaters require?"
A. These tankless water heaters require Category III stainless steel vent only.
Q. "I've heard that some Takagi tankless water heaters cannot be installed in a few areas. Is that true?"
A. Yes, there are some counties that do not allow for the installation of a few Takagi tankless water heaters. For this reason, the person purchasing one of the following models is responsible for checking with their local code authorities prior to ordering: T-M32-NG, T-D2-IN-NG, T-D2-OS-NG, T-K4-IN-NG, T-K4-OS-NG, T-KJr-IN-NG, T-KJr-OS-NG. Here's a list (not complete) of some California counties that do not allow these water heaters to be installed: Sacramento, Yolo, Sonoma, San Joaquin, Napa, Marin, Solano, Contra Costa, San Francisco, San Mateo, Alameda, and Santa Clara. Again, this list is not complete, so it's up to the purchaser to check with local code authorities prior to ordering.
Q. "If these units don't have a tank, how do they know when to turn on?"
A. These tankless water heaters have a flow switch built into them. When you turn on the hot side of a faucet the water begins moving. Once the water is traveling at minimum flow rate for the heater, the flow switch will turn on the gas.
Q. "Why can't I install the T-D2-IN myself?"
A. Improper installation of the T-D2-IN could create carbon monoxide gas and other dangerous gases. Installation of this unit by persons other than professionally trained technicians voids the warranty.
Q. "What's the difference between a conventional flue and a direct vent?"
A. A conventional flue is what most people are familiar with. It typically consists of a double-wall flue pipe going from the top of the heater through the roof, venting outside. The fixture draws its combustion air from the space around it (utility room, garage, hallway, etc.). A direct-vent unit vents and draws its combustion air through a specially designed pipe from the outside via an adjacent wall.
Q. "I live in an area where it freezes, what can I do to protect the heater from freezing?"
A. We recommend you use the TK-BF01 exhaust back flow prevention kit to prevent cold air from entering the vent and causing the heat exchanger to freeze.
Q. "Can I use PVC to vent this tankless water heater?"
A. No. The temperature of the exhaust is too high to safely use PVC as venting material. We never recommend PVC as venting even where the ideal exhaust temperatures would technically allow it due to a much higher incident of dangerous issues and failure associated with PVC venting on poorly-maintained gas tankless water heaters.
Q. "Your products specify the 'temp. rise' based on the GPM flow; what do you mean by this?"
A. Temperature rise is the amount the heater raises the temperature of the incoming water, based on the flow rate shown of that water.
Q. "What's the first hour rating of this water heater?"
A. Traditional tank water heaters have a first hour rating which is determined by the amount of hot water the heater can produce in an hour when starting with a full tank of hot water. As tankless water heaters do not start with a tank of hot water, they don't really have a first hour rating the same way a tank water heater does. Instead, tankless water heaters have a gallons per hour rating, which is determined by how many gallons per hour the tankless water heater can produce when raising the incoming water temperature a specified amount.