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Simple, straightforward and low shipping rates for Case toilet parts.


Case Toilet Parts


PlumbingSupply.com® stocks more Case toilet repair parts and replacement Case toilet tank lids than anyone else on the Internet! Fill valves, diverters, lift wires and more can be found right here. Not sure which model Case toilet you have? Check here for pictures of Case toilets to make sure of the model.


discontinued over 50 years ago yet we still offer parts for these toilets

Click on highlighted part numbers to see a picture of that particular Case part.

If you don't know what Case or Briggs toilet you have,
please look at our Case / Briggs toilet identification page.








Case Toilet Parts:

Part # Description Price & Quantity
5028 Vent Disk $3.18
5073 Gasket (seal) for #5129 flush valve $4.92
5076 Volume Control - For Case 5163, 5164 Fill Valve $9.61
5101 Conversion Kit - For Older Case Fill Valves $86.98
5106 Trip Lever - For Case 4000, 4000A, 4100, 4100-A, 4200, 4300 $9.99
5108 Push Button Assembly - For Case 9000 & 9100 (pre-1976 & after 1980) Discontinued
5109 Diverter Repair Kit - For Case 5163 Fill Valve $53.97
5110 Repair Kit - For Case 5130 Diverter $51.81
5111 Pump Assembly - For Case 5163 Diverter $27.28
5112 Repair Kit - For Case 5161 Diverter $32.45
5118 Plunger Assembly - For Case 5166 Fill Valve $30.68
5119 (SP-19) Repair Kit - For Case 5163, 5164 Fill Valves $30.23
5121 (SP-21) Fill Valve Repair Kit - For Case 5150 Fill Valve $50.13
5122 (SP-22) Stop Repair Kit - For Case 5150 Fill Valve $35.39
5123 (SP-23) Regulator Repair Kit - For Case 5150 Fill Valve $54.49
5124 Vent Repair Kit - For Case 5150 Fill Valve $46.70
5125 Rim Valve Repair Kit - For Case 5150 Fill Valve $34.39
5126 Misc. Repair Parts - For Case 5150 Fill Valve
(#5126 includes hush tube, 3 upper vac. breaker gaskets, 2 screws)
$24.98
5127 Trip Lever Kit - For Case A, 1000, 1100, 3000 $82.67
5127 Trip Lever only (less tank ball and 6" lift wire) $77.53
5127-LW 6" Lift Wire ONLY (for #5127 trip lever kit) $3.10
5129 (SP-29) Flush Valve - 5-1/4" tall - For Case 1000, 1100, 3000, 6000 (3200), 4000, 4000A, 4100A, 6011 (6001) (4200),6002 (4300), 6005 (9000), 6006 (9100) $78.45
Briggs #5073 Gasket for #5129 flush valve (listed above) $4.92

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Not sure which model toilet you have? Try looking under the toilet tank lid or inside of the toilet tank.




Part # Description Price & Quantity
B251 Triple Seal Tank Ball (heavy duty) by Radiator Specialty (measures 2 1/4" - 2 5/8") - Fits Case #5129 $3.29
5130M Diverter Assembly - For Case 3200, 4200, 4300, 9000 & 9100 (1976 - 1980) $69.22
5132 (SP-32) Misc. Repair Parts - For Case 5150 Fill Valve
(#5132 includes lower brass riser tube of fill valve and all parts below that)
$46.26
5133 Diverter - For Case 4000A, 4100-A Discontinued
5146 Nylon Seat For Case 5150 $4.27
5147 Plunger - For Case 5150 $23.12
5150 (#50) Fill Valve - For Case 1000, 1100, 3000
click here for parts breakdown - (will not replace the #57 fill valve)
$235.27
5160 Fill Valve - For Case A, Case A-2 (Blue Label) Discontinued
5161 Diverter - For Case 4000, 4100 $46.16
5163 Fill Valve - For Case 4000A, 4100, 4100-A, and 4200 (pre-1976 and after 1980) $186.62
5164 (62-8) Ballcock assembly
click here for parts breakdown
$178.92
5166M Fill Valve - For Case 3200, 4200, 4300, 9000 & 9100 (1976 - 1980) Discontinued
(see below)
For #5166M - order Case #5164 with #5106
5173 Flush valve flapper (No. 75, SP-73) - For Case 5188, 6070, 6075 tanks $9.64
5176 Push button flush assembly for Case II and Case IV $32.67
5188 (SP-88) Flush Valve - 5" tall - For Case 4100 $84.35
5190 Trip Lever - For Case 3200, 9000 &9100 (1976 - 1980) $14.61
5192 Fill Valve with diverter - For Case 6022, 6024, 6026, 6036 (#5192 is a fill valve, not a flush valve)
$81.27
#1B1X Fill valve for For Case 6022, 6024, 6026, 6036 (less float ball & diverter assembly)
Includes: ballcock/fill valve, refill tube, brass float rod and mounting hardware (washers, nuts and screws) - less float ball & diverter assembly (less diverter assembly & float ball)
$39.95
#1B1X-Complete Complete Fill Valve Assembly - fits many one-piece toilets
Includes: plastic 1B1X fill valve, refill tube, brass float rod, black plastic float ball, diverter assembly and mounting hardware (washers, nuts & screws) - less flapper and flush valve - durable PLASTIC construction
temporarily
unavailable
#1B1X-Complete Complete Fill Valve Assembly - fits many one-piece toilets
Includes: brass 1B1X fill valve, refill tube, brass float rod, black plastic float ball, diverter assembly and mounting hardware (washers, nuts & screws) - less flapper and flush valve - durable BRASS construction
$66.62
1B1X-BCRKC Complete Repair Kit for the 1B1X
Includes top assembly, large o-ring, plunger with washers and 3 screws
$9.92
1B1X-KIT Repair Kit for the 1B1X
Includes: large o-ring and plunger with washers
$6.23
1B1X-TOP Top assembly only for the 1B1X
Includes 2-piece plastic top assembly and 3 screws
$6.99
B351304 Genuine Briggs Replacement Flapper - Replaces 500044, B500045 $10.59

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Need help identifying your Case toilet?
Please see our Case toilet identification page.




Case Toilet Seats

Case 1000 and 1100 toilet seats
for old Case 1000 and 3000 toilets
with quality hinges

An example of the Case 1000 is shown here, and the Case 3000 is shown here

Fits Case 1000 and 3000 Toilets
Heavy duty, durable solid plastic toilet seat
w/ chrome metal hinges, 7" Center-to-Center

click here for dimensions
#1000 - Round Front - white with chrome hinges $111.95
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Case 1100 toilet seat

Fits Case 1100 Toilets
Heavy duty, durable solid plastic toilet seat
w/ chrome metal hinges, 7" Center-to-Center

click here for dimensions
#1100 - Elongated Front - white with chrome hinges $137.45
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Note: For sanitary/hygienic reasons, toilet seats may not be returned.








to Case obsolete toilet tank lids - to the history of Case toilets




Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, and remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.

2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of the cross lever and above the support of the float rod, then press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.

Q. "What is the difference between "OEM" and "will-fit" parts? And what do these terms mean anyway?"
A. OEM stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer". This means anything from the original manufacturer that is sold to a second company to use in production of that second company's product. In other words, many toilet manufacturers outsource for the internal working parts of the toilet, such as the fill valves, flush valves, or flappers. When this happens, they have the opportunity to use an existing part, or to spec something for the specific toilet. When the toilet manufacturer chooses to use an existing part, the manufacturer of the part can still sell that piece under their own name - these are considered "will fit" parts. If the toilet manufacturer chooses to spec something for the specific toilet, the part manufacturer can then only provide that part to the toilet manufacturer. What this means for you is that you can sometimes get the *exact same part* (by the original manufacturer of the OEM part), but under another name and at a better cost! So when your toilet's internal working parts need to be replaced, you may have the option to use either the "OEM" part number or use the "will-fit" part number to order what you need. Please note that only some "will-fit" items are manufactured by the OEM manufacturer. If this is essential to your repair, please feel free to contact us and we will be happy to check for you.

Q. "How are the lengths of toilet fill valves measured?"
A. The toilet fill valve measurements we show are measured from the inside bottom of the tank to the top of the fill valve. The threaded water supply shank that fits through the bottom of the tank is not included in this measurement.

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and my new valve comes on (and then goes off) for a few seconds about once per hour?"
A. This could be caused by many things. The most common is with a Fluidmaster 400. This is a great valve but be sure to install the 1/4" tube per their instructions. Use the clip that comes with it and do not just stick it into the overflow tube or it will go on and off every so often by itself. If that isn't it, take some food coloring and place it in your tank. Wait a few hours and if some of the color has gone into the bowl then you probably need a new flapper.

Q. "What are the most commonly replaced toilet parts?"
A. This depends on several factors; each time you use your toilet the trip lever, flapper, and fill valve are operated. You will find, however, that the flapper and fill valve are the parts most exposed to water and will be the first ones to wear out in most cases.

Q. "How long 'should' the parts inside of my toilet last?"
A. That depends on a number of variables and which parts. Water quality is one of the major factors. If your water source is heavily chlorinated then many parts won't last long. Or if you have a lot of sand or grit or have a low pH or "aggressive" water source then parts simply won't last as long as the 'average' length of time. Also the quality of the parts matters. The replaceable parts such as flappers and washers/seals generally will last at least 4 to 5 years on "average." If you use a chemical bowl cleaner some flappers won't even last one year. However, some toilet bowl cleaners isolate cleanser from the internal workings of the toilet therefore, maximizing the life of your toilet parts. Depending on the material make up, flappers will either deteriorate (leave residue on your skin when touched) or some will tend to harden or stiffen up and lose their original shape and flexibility. If this is the case, then it's best to change it.

Q. "Why does my toilet continue to run after flushing?"
A. If, after flushing, you find that the toilet continues to run, and you have discovered that by jiggling the handle it will stop; then the problem may be that the chain controlling the flapper is too long. When installing your flapper, you want the flapper chain's S-hook in the hole closest to the handle with very little slack in the chain itself. By doing so, when the toilet is flushed, the chain will fall behind the flapper where it won't snag and cause problems such as keeping the flapper from closing properly. Check to make sure that the flapper has enough clearance to close, i.e. not hitting the float ball when the water level drops. You also want to check to see that the toilet's flush handle (aka tank lever) is installed securely so it can't rotate too high, hitting the tank's lid or other parts and sticking.

Q. "What's the best way to replace my toilet flapper?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. Reach in and unhook the ears of the flapper and unhook the chain from the trip lever. Install an identical flapper to the original that came from the factory. Do expect to get your hands dirty from the old flapper. Simply reinstall the new one in reverse order. Note that should you have very old brass pipes inside of your toilet, be careful not to be rough on them. They can easily break and end up leaking. After you have replaced your flapper, and the toilet tank bowl has refilled, the water fill valve should not leak (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend putting some food coloring into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the flapper is not the correct one, the surface where the toilet flapper sits, has eroded (feel below where the flapper touched the toilet and see if you can feel erosion/groove) or you may only need to add some slack to the chain.




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