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Simple, straightforward and low shipping rates for Case toilet parts.
Q. "The cost for repair parts for these toilets seems a little expensive, compared to parts for most other toilets. Why is this, and can I use other parts instead?"
A. The Case Toilet Company has been out of existence for a number of decades, and their parts are rare and difficult to find. In relation to the huge number of toilets installed around the world, there are relatively few Case toilets still in use. This makes the need for their parts less common, and so manufacturing them is more costly. However, for the most part, only parts made specifically for Case toilets will work. Click here for hard-to-find Case toilet repair parts.
Q. "What does 'will fit' mean?"
A. "Will Fit" is a term used to define an item that may or may not be made by the original manufacturer (OEM), but will function just like the original part.
Q. "What is the difference between "OEM" and "will-fit" parts? And what does OEM mean anyway?"
A. "OEM" stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer". This refers to anything from the original manufacturer that is sold to a second company to use in production of that second company's product. In other words, many toilet manufacturers outsource for the internal working parts of the toilet, such as the fill valves, flush valves, or flappers. When this happens, they have the opportunity to use an existing part, or to spec something for the specific toilet. When the toilet manufacturer chooses to use an existing part, the manufacturer of the part can still sell that piece under their own name. If the toilet manufacturer chooses to spec something for the specific toilet, the part manufacturer can then only provide that part to the toilet manufacturer. What this means for you is that you can sometimes get the *exact same part* (by the original manufacturer of the OEM part), but under another name and at a better cost! So when your toilet's internal working parts need to be replaced, you may have the option to use either the "OEM" part number or use the "will-fit" part number to order what you need. Please note that only some "will-fit" items are manufactured by the OEM manufacturer. If this is essential to your repair, please feel free to contact us and we will be happy to check for you.
Q. "What is the best way to replace my tank ball?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: First, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. The tank ball will most likely be deteriorating and you will get your hands dirty. Or, you may wish to use some latex gloves. Reach in and with one hand lift the wire attached to the tank ball. With your other hand unscrew the tank ball from the lift wire. In some cases, depending on age of product and water conditions, the lift wire may be corroded and break as you try to unscrew the tank ball. Replace the lift wire if necessary. Replace the tank ball with an identical size tank ball. Screw the new tank ball onto the lift wire. Be careful of older brass parts inside your toilet so as not to break or damage them and cause you more problems. Now turn the water back on and allow the tank to fill up. The water fill valve should not leak once the tank is filled (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend some food coloring be put into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the tank ball is not the correct one or the surface where the tank ball sits has eroded (feel below where the tank ball touches the seat of the flush valve and see if you can feel erosion or possibly a small groove). Also check to make sure the lift wires are not bent and allow the ball to lift and drop easily and centered onto the flush valve seat.
Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.
2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of cross lever and above the support of the float rod and press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.
Q. "How long 'should' the parts inside of my toilet last?"
A. That depends on a number of variables and which parts. Water quality is one of the major factors. If your water source is heavily chlorinated then many parts won't last long. Or if you have a lot of sand or grit or have a low pH or "aggressive" water source then parts simply won't last as long as the 'average' length of time. Also the quality of the parts matters. The replaceable parts such as flappers and washers/seals generally will last at least 4 to 5 years on "average." If you use a chemical bowl cleaner some flappers won't even last one year. However, some toilet bowl cleaners isolate cleanser from the internal workings of the toilet therefore, maximizing the life of your toilet parts. If your flapper has black "goo" on it then it is either due to age or quality of your water and if it feels soft then it's best to change it.
We hope that we have helped you on this page with Case toilet repair parts,
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