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Replacement Parts For Case Toilets


Looking for those hard to find replacement parts and seats for the Case 3000 toilets? You'll find them here at PlumbingSupply.com®! Not sure which Case toilet you have? Click here and view all the different models we offer parts for.

Case Toilet Model #3000 - Wall Mount Toilets
3000 Toilet


Complete Rebuild Kit for Case #3000
Case 5150 ballcock
#5150
*
picture of Case 5129 flush valve with all parts included
5129
Case 5127 trip lever assembly in chrome finish
5127
Includes: 5150* Ballcock, 5129 Flush Valve and 5127 Trip Lever

Case 3000 Complete Rebuild Kit  $342.95
Save money by purchasing the complete rebuild kit

* Please note: the Case 5150 Ballcock will not replace the #57 Ballcock
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Case #3000 Toilet Replacement Parts

Click images below for larger view

Click Image Below Description Price & Quantity
Case 5150 ballcock assembly shown in pieces #5150 Ballcock
(will not replace the #57 ballcock/fill valve)
$235.27
Case 5129 flush valve shown with all parts included #5129 Flush Valve $78.45
picture of Case 5169 triple seal replacement tank ball #5169 Case Replacement Tank Ball $3.19
#B251 "Will Fit" Tank Ball - extra heavy duty $3.29
Case 5127 handle assembly with lift wire and tank ball #5127 Flush Lever Kit
Includes trip lever, lift wire & tank ball
$82.67
Case 5127 trip lever only #5127-LTB Trip Lever Only $77.53
6 inch lift wire only #5127-LW - 6" Lift Wire Only $3.10

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Not sure which model toilet you have? Try looking under the toilet tank lid or inside of the toilet tank.




Toilet Seats that Fit Case 3000 and Case 1000
 
round Case toilet seat
These seats are available in white only

Description Price & Quantity
Toilet Seat For Case 3000 and 1000 toilets
regular round front, WHITE seat with chrome hinges
(click here for dimensions)
$111.95

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q. "Do you offer a replacement for the Case 57 Ballcock/Fill valve?"
A. We are sorry, but the Case 57 Ballcock was made for Case toilet model numbers 1000, 1100 and 3000 one piece toilets for a very short period of time and no replacement is available. Most Case 1000, Case 1100 and Case 3000 one piece toilets use the Case 5150 ballcock but the Case 5150 will not replace the Case 57 ballcock because those particular models of toilets using the Case 57 had a different inside tank configuration made specifically for the Case 57 ballcock. View image of Case 57 and Case 5150 comparison.

Q. "How can I determine my fill valve (ballcock) is a Case model #57"
A. The Case 57 Ballcock has large raised letters and numbers molded into the valve just below the volume control nut as shown in this close-up view of the Case 57 ballcock.

Q. "The cost for repair parts for these toilets seems a little expensive, compared to parts for most other toilets. Why is this, and can I use other parts instead?"
A. The Case Toilet Company has been out of existence for a number of decades, and their parts are rare and difficult to find. In relation to the huge number of toilets installed around the world, there are relatively few Case toilets still in use. This makes the need for their parts less common, and so manufacturing them is more costly. However, for the most part, only parts made specifically for Case toilets will work. Click here for hard-to-find Case toilet repair parts.

Q. "What is the best way to replace my tank ball?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: First, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. The tank ball will most likely be deteriorating and you will get your hands dirty. Or, you may wish to use some latex gloves. Reach in and with one hand lift the wire attached to the tank ball. With your other hand unscrew the tank ball from the lift wire. In some cases, depending on age of product and water conditions, the lift wire may be corroded and break as you try to unscrew the tank ball. Replace the lift wire if necessary. Replace the tank ball with an identical size tank ball. Screw the new tank ball onto the lift wire. Be careful of older brass parts inside your toilet so as not to break or damage them and cause you more problems. Now turn the water back on and allow the tank to fill up. The water fill valve should not leak once the tank is filled (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend some food coloring be put into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the tank ball is not the correct one or the surface where the tank ball sits has eroded (feel below where the tank ball touches the seat of the flush valve and see if you can feel erosion or possibly a small groove). Also check to make sure the lift wires are not bent and allow the ball to lift and drop easily and centered onto the flush valve seat.

Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.

2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of cross lever and above the support of the float rod and press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.

Have questions about toilet parts or toilet repair?

Read our comprehensive Toilet Repair Information & FAQs to learn how your toilet works,
how to find the right replacement parts, and how to fix common problems.




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